une visite à Chartres

on friday, we went to chartres for my medieval art class. chartres is the best-preserved gothic cathedral in france, about an hour south of paris by train. unfortunately, the day was rainy and dreary, so the cathedral was extra-dark and the stained-glass windows didn't have the effect they were intended too. (this also means most of my pictures turned out poorly.) but that just means i'll be returning during the summer!!



so here is the front of the church. at first it looks symmetrical, but if you look closer, you'll see that the north and south towers are uneven - the north tower was built first and the current cathedral was rebuilt after a fire in the 12th century.



we spent a long time examining the west portals, the details of which i will spare you... but this photo is from a depiction of the nativity: there are two (and a half) shepards and some little sheep!



the west windows above the portals. the shade of blue is only found in 12th-century glass; the technique has been lost and no one has been able to recreate it.



the labyrinth is in the center of the central nave and is closed most of the year. we were lucky enough to come when it was open, so of course we walked the maze. it's a meditative, spiritual experience: many of the people visiting chartres that day were not tourists but pilgrims.



one of the rose windows, on the north side of the transept. it depicts the "good kings" and "evil kings" of the old testament.



after lunch we walked around to the north side of the church and found some posters advertising playmobile models. clearly we got pretty excited.



these are statues on the columns of the north facade. it's crazy how detailed everything is; i love how the saints stand on top of these amusing little figures.



the shrine of the black madonna. the cathedral also houses a relic of mary, a blue cloth that was supposedly her tunic or robe... didn't get a photo of that though.



then we went down into the crypt, which dates from carolingian times. although most of the walls were re-painted in the nineteenth century, this fresco is about a thousand years old. awesome.



there's also a well in the crypt (which indicates that the site was in use long before the christian era). apparently i almost fell in...


in other news, spring has sort of arrived in paris - when it's not raining, that is. my two-week spring break is coming up in a week. i'm going to istanbul, turkey and barcelona, spain. i'm super excited because while i've been lucky to travel around france and parts of northern europe, i'm definitely ready for something different. i've never been inside a mosque, i haven't been to the beach in years, and i miss trying to speak spanish with my latin friends in nyc. plus, before i leave, i'll have a few days to bum around paris, hopefully in beautiful weather, reading and drinking coffee and generally living la vie en rose.

keep in touch!

les catacombes de paris

last week we went to the paris catacombs. running for 186 miles underneath the city, the catacombs are the final resting place for thousands and thousands of french citizens. in the late seventeenth century, several parisian cemeteries had become dangerously overcrowded - coffins would emerge from the ground, leading to epidemics in several quartiers. what to do? in 1786, authorities decided to move the bodies into the former roman quarries which run beneath the streets of paris. the result?



the bodies are obviously not intact. it's strange to think about the workers who disassembled thousands of corpses to create the bone-lined hallways under the city. perhaps to amuse themselves during their labor, some of the remains have been creatively arranged.



throughout the caves, one finds poetic carvings, graffiti, and somewhat disconcerting memorials. for instance, this is one of the entrances to the grave (today the only legal entrance, part of the musée des catacombes):



("stop! here is the empire of death.")


what i wonder is why the city chose to dispose of the bodies in this way. wouldn't it have been more economical (and sanitary) to cremate them? it's not like the corpses were respectfully kept intact; for the most part, it seems like only arm and leg bones and skulls compose the walls.



the tunnels were originally limestone mines built and used by the romans, but people have long been going underground for other purposes - many of the walls are covered in graffiti. aristocrats would hold parties in the crypts before the revolution. during world war two, the germans set up a secret bunker, while the french resistance used the catacombes as their headquarters.



today, one can legally reach the catacombes only through the museum, but the crypts available for viewing are a tiny part of the system. of course, there are lots of illegal tours you can risk, but they can be dangerous...